BUDDY- antisocial with other dogs

Buddy now visiting dog park twice daily:

Yay! I’m so excited for you all!

Just remember the “trigger-dogs” will always exist. Overtime buddy will be more skilled and will do the work himself more and more, to avoid those dogs. For now- you’re the “go-between” to help him not have a knee-jerk reaction. Preventing that default setting is the name of the game for him. Past that, it’s keeping him “soft” ( no raised head & stiffened back, no engaged facial muscles & glaring eyes, allowing other dogs to smell so they’re “finished with him” while he feels “finished with them” in the event that no friendship is possible, and allowing him then, to always walk away – keep dogs from trailing him that he doesn’t likeā€¦”

Observe, observe and observe, for his signs – and don’t hold images or negative expectations while working with him. You are the CALM, ASSERTIVE LEADER, with him CALM, SUBMISSIVE, & OBEDIENT

Don’t enter the park or start intros until he’s compliant on the leash outside of the park. Do a few intros if possible outside of park so that he warms up 1:1, and not with a potential mob.

Then you’ll need to read the sign and intentions from other dogs at the park. There will be other dogs like Buddy there- that are ok w 90% of the other dogs, and triggered by 10% – triggered by Buddy- until Buddy emits different chemicals. His chemical signals will be changing as he practices the above new skills, and makes a permanent internal shift.

Well done Carol Anne- I think you’ve become quite skilled. The last ingredient for you is early recognition of his signals and reading other dogs. Don’t ever act hesitant to step between him and other dogs. This will help buddy disengage and can then soften an oncoming dog. That alone can often stop a fight that might have ensued. Be sure to get the attention of the other dog, and divert its attention on buddy